| Booze, boom shaped Moorhead (continued) As World War I loomed on the international horizon, a brief period of
economic growth and optimism followed in Moorhead, according to Clarence Glasrud, a
regional historian and former professor at MSU. |
Moorhead saloons
drew all kinds (continued) Some of the local taverns featured polished bar rails and elegantly tiled floors. Others were nothing more than shacks. Clay County Historical Society archives The rougher saloons were little more than tarpaper shacks nestled closer to the river, places where gamblers, itinerant railroad workers, lumberjacks and rounders with names like "Blinky Jack" could drink, carouse and fight. Be it the black-tie crowd or the black-eye crowd, they all flocked to Moorhead for the same thing. "People could come over and drink beer and drink booze and whatever you wanted," Moorhead resident and businessman Jake Kiefer explained during a 1986 interview recorded for the Heritage Education Commission. "You had half a million people over there and they all wanted whiskey. Had to have whiskey. Couldn't live over there without it." The son of a local saloon owner and wholesale liquor dealer, Kiefer grew up during Moorhead's boozy era. Granted when he was 89 years old, Kiefer's interview is perhaps the best contemporary record of that time. In it he recounts how thousands of lumberjacks working the forests of northwest Minnesota would pour into the tiny city after a long and lonely logging season. He knew lots of them personally. They had names like Big Swede, French Eagle, Big Tom and Short Swede. "They were good men, but they just lived for one thing. Go out and work six months up in the woods, come into town here, maybe have $500 in their pocket," Kiefer recounted. "First place they would hit would be down at the Palace (Palace Clothing), buy a new suit of clothes, new underwear, new shirt, tie, fancy hat, the whole damn works." Next, they'd head to the jeweler to buy a new watch and chain. Then it was off to the barbershops to have their hair cut, beards shaved off, and to soak off the stink of a season in the timber in the steaming bathtubs that lined the back room of most barbershops. The whole spending spree maybe cost the lumberjacks $50. They'd entrust the rest of their money to Kiefer's father for safe keeping. "They'd take maybe $50 or $100 and they'd go out and get drunk. They did all their drinking in Moorhead," he said. And when they were well plied with liquor, the men hopped aboard one of the fleet of free carriages known as "jag wagons" that would transport them to one of Fargo's many brothels or "fancy houses" as Kiefer called them. "Third Street in Fargo ... They had all the fancy houses there. Madame Deneaux, Madame Massey ... Madame Belle's." No strangers to this season of drunken men and fat wallets, the prostitutes knew the lumberjacks were ripe for the picking. They harvested as much of their libidinous patrons' cash and finery as possible. And as they ambled broke and dazed back through the doors of Moorhead's saloons to ease their hangovers - commonly called tin-cup jags because whiskey was served in tin cups - the lumberjacks learned the hard way that if virtue was its own reward, then vice was its own punishment. "Next morning they'd show up and be pretty sick," Kiefer said. "(They'd) be short $100 or $150, and maybe forget their hat over there or maybe their shoes, maybe their coats and maybe be short a watch or two." Kiefer, who grew up to become a prominent automobile dealer in Moorhead, may have witnessed life in the saloons firsthand, but he kept his distance from the houses of ill repute. "I never got over there. I was too young," he told his interviewer. "I'm sorry I missed it. But anyway, it was quite interesting." |
| "Then people started to question: 'Did you do the right thing?' Now we've got a
wasteland downtown." Eventually, the Moorhead Center Mall emerged from the wasteland. But by 1974, the jury was still out whether urban renewal was a success. Despite constant attempts, the city had been unable to lure a big department store to anchor the mall. Truth is, the redeveloped downtown has required constant cultivation for the past 30-plus years "and there's still more work to do," says current Mayor Morris Lanning. Still, Lanning calls the leadership that led to urban renewal far-sighted. "Moorhead did the dramatic, and that's why we have a viable downtown today," says Lanning, the city's mayor since 1980. "Without urban renewal, downtown would be a slum today." Determined to grow A period of tremendous growth had come to a dead stop as the 1970s came to a close. New housing subdivisions had fallen flat. In 1978, for instance, only half of the city's special assessments were actually being paid. Business was waning, and population was declining. "We closed seven schools in Moorhead," Lanning says. In 1980, city leaders were forced to cut $2 million from the budget, a cut that would cripple services even today. The period was one of Moorhead's most defining moments, Lanning says. "It was a very critical point in the history of this community. There was widespread pessimism." And the response that came from city leaders, lawmakers and residents saved the city from certain and lasting decline, says Lanning. After a major local lobbying effort, in 1983 the Legislature enacted some special economic development laws to help stabilize border cities like Moorhead. "We turned the corner. We were able to stop the loss of business - the hemorrhaging, Lanning says. "The community kind of turned a corner too, in terms of resolve. We were going to roll up our sleeves and deal with this." What the future holds Exactly what lies ahead for Moorhead in next 100 years is anybody's guess, but the first watershed issue of 21st Century will surely be water, Lanning says. Especially water supply. "We aren't going to have enough water 50 years from now," says Lanning, who has worked in the forefront of basin water issues for 20 years. Water supply will be crucial to residential and commercial growth in both Fargo and Moorhead, especially if the area is to broaden its base of agricultural processing. The solution is to divert Missouri River water from western North Dakota to the Red River, something that's been discussed and fought over for decades but never accomplished. The challenge will be to harness the political will to get the water here. "It will be very complex, very difficult," says Lanning. "The task is way beyond any one entity or individual leader." |
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